Troubleshooting (under construction)

When first adding worms to your bin, it is very likely that the worms will be interested in leaving. Most times this is simply the worms trying to figure out their new environment, but sometimes can be a sign of issues. 

It is important to have your bed built at least a day or two prior to your worms arriving. This will help the chlorine dissipate and also allow the bedding to stabilize a bit.

We always suggest placing a light over your bin opening (with a cover on your bedding) at least for the first three or so nights. 

In a worm's hierarchy of needs, water ranks the highest.... well other than maybe stay out of the sun. This is because worms breathe through their skin and are almost 100% water. A worm's size, weight, activity, etc. is incredibly dependent on available moisture. 

And if a worm can follow moisture, it will. 

A few tips:

• Don't water in the evening when it gets close to dark. Worms are FAR more likely to leave a bin if watered just before dark. 
• Don't place your bin in an area that is high in moisture or susceptible to getting wet. If you place your bin in a bathroom, your worms will end up on your bathroom walls - trust us :) 
• Just as the bathroom example above, don't place your bin in an area that will get rained on. Unless your bin is a garden bed, then excess water will potentially not only get into your bin, but get everything around it wet, and your worms will follow that moisture.
• Place a light on your bin or place your bin in an area with indirect sunlight.
• Try to not get water on or around your bin when watering your worms. 
• Make sure your bedding has enough moisture. If your bedding becomes dry, the worms will become more likely to leave in search of a better environment. 

If any levels in your bin "spike", your worms may evacuate. These levels may spike depending on your inputs. 

Potential Causes of Bedding Imbalances

   Organic Waste Inputs (Feeds)

• Over Feeding: This is the number one reason beds become imbalanced. Nitrogen levels (as well as PH and other levels) can spike which create hot spots and smells within the bedding and may push worms away. It's also important to feed your worms a variety of foods to help minimize the chances of levels spiking.
• Adding Foods that shouldn't be in your bin: Citrus, Vinegars, Salts, Oils, Fats, Dairy, Spicy, etc.

   Water Quality

• Water can have a variety of items in it. City water will have chlorines and other cleaning chemicals. Well water may have bacteria's or potentially chemicals, and who knows what may or may not be flowing down the irrigation canals. Usually, you can smell issues with water if they are in high enough concentrations to impact worms. This certainly is not 100% of the time and it won't take much contaminated water if you have a small bin. 

TIPS

• The Larger the bin the less maintenance. Large bins take a bit more to get set up initially, but they require far less day-to-day maintenance and are far less likely to have bedding imbalances. 
• If you suspect a bedding imbalance, please stop adding materials (other than water when needed) and monitor. If you feel that you need to add more bedding, use a simple mix of "safe" bedding materials. These would include peat moss, papers, coco-coir, etc. that have hopefully had a chance to sit moist for a few days prior to adding to your bin. 

Dead worms smell horrible! If something is off in your bin (especially if it's hot), your worms will smell awful! 

Systems of Over Feeding

• Smells, Hot-Spots, Molds, and general "funk"
• Mites or other critters
• "Hot Spots" 
• Rings around your worms (potential protein poisoning)

A few tips:

• Only Feed your worms enough to eat for a few days. Once your bin becomes "active" and the worms eat more materials, then you can bump up feedings. We generally will feed for about a week at a time, but we've had tons of trial and error. 
• Don't feed your bin for a few days after receiving your worms. Let your worms become established in their new environment prior to feeding waste materials. 

Stagnate anaerobic water ponds can create some serious funk - Imagine a swamp.

A Few Tips

   Drainage

• Make sure your bin has plenty of drainage - no puddles!

   Fresh Air

• If your bin is covered tightly (not suggested but possible), it may also become anaerobic and smell. This environment also has the potential to create molds and fungi. Make sure to "burp" (o

TIPS

• The Larger the bin the less maintenance. Large bins take a bit more to get set up initially, but they require far less day-to-day maintenance and are far less likely to have bedding imbalances. 
• If you suspect a bedding imbalance, please stop adding materials (other than water when needed) and monitor. If you feel that you need to add more bedding, use a simple mix of "safe" bedding materials. These would include peat moss, papers, coco-coir, etc. that have hopefully had a chance to sit moist for a few days prior to adding to your bin.